Fish and seafood are the specialities, and the stated philosophy is 'to treat the best ingredients simply'. That certainly seems to be registered by reporters, who have praised sauce scallops on minted pea puree with red wine jus, and daily specials such as a medley of eloquently fresh oysters, mussels, cockles and Atlantic prawns, baked and dressed with nothing more than lemon, garlic, herbs and olive oil. Corpulent lobsters are on display in a tank, and may turn up later grilled with garlic butter or with lobster sauce and Gruyere. A similar lobster sauce added resonant depth to a piece of crisp-skinned, 'perfectly timed' sea bass served on a bed of spinach leaves for an inspector. Meat eaters can enjoy organic sirloin steak, while a vegetarian main course might offer baked goats' cheese pie with tomato and pesto. An inch-deep slice of lemon tart with fine shortcrust is one way of finishing, but freshly made raspberry sorbet in a brandy-snap basket is considered a triumph as well, and hot-weather diners may well encounter a memorable version of summer pudding served with creme fraiche. A visitor on whom the place made a big impression described the service as 'intelligent, cheerful, relaxed, obliging and observant'. An imaginative wine list favours France and the southern hemisphere. Prices are fair, and it all kicks off with French white and Chilean red house wines at £10.60.

CHEFS: Patrick Le Mesurier and Raoul Moore PROPRIETOR: Inn Fish ltd OPEN: Tue to Sun L 12 to 2, Tue to Sat D 6.45 to 9 MEALs: alc (main courses £10.50W£33) SERVICE: not inc, card slips closed CARDS: Amex, Delta, MasterCard, Switch, Visa DETAILS: 60 seats. 20 seats outside. Private parties: 60 main room, 6 to 14 private rooms. Car park. Vegetarian meals. Children's helpings. No smoking in dining room. Wheelchair access (also WC). Occasional music. No mobile phones. Air-conditioned ACCOMMODATION: 3 rooms, all with bath/shower. TV. Phone. BBB £50 to £90